Let's see, where was I...
After maneuvering through the many surrounding islands we finally arrived into the harbour of Vava’u, Tonga, one of the 48 occupied islands among the 171 other islands in the country. The kingdom of Tonga is a monarchy and the only country in the region to avoid formal colonization; it is also plagued with poverty. It is an amazing country and everywhere you go the locals are willing to engage in a conversation with you, tell you about their situations and political views.
Through speaking and meeting the locals I learned that there are very few amenities and no minimum wage exists (the average pay at around .60 cents/hour). It is very difficult for many to survive on these wages and the current government has done nothing to address public concerns. Regardless of their situation, everybody I met invited me into their homes, welcomed me into their families. One man offered us his home anytime we wanted to stay, he told us how it is not necessary to lock their doors and that crime was nearly non-existent.
After spending the first day clearing immigrations and meeting up with Doug and his crew we set off on our first Tongan adventure. Just to give you an introduction, we had met Doug, Campbell, Manu and the lady aboard (it is a shame I can’t remember her name) in French Polynesia. Doug had been a crew for Dave some decade prior and has been rigging boats ever since, Campbell was his kiwi surfing counterpart who was also a 25 year old green horn. This was the boat and crew that I had hoped to be crewing on; with surfboards and diving as their primary agenda we became quick friends.
The first night we had met in French Polynesia was a very fond memory, only because it ended with a lot of rum and me skurfing through the harbour in the middle of the night. Skurfing is when you surf behind a boat, just remember to be careful if the towrope you’re using has no handle; anyways that is another story. This was my first introduction to Campbell and Doug and after having spent time together in the Cook Islands we again were reunited in Tonga.
Among our many adventures, the second day in Tonga we all took the dinghy about an hour away to a couple caves. The first cave was appropriately named Sparrow’s Cave and could be entered in with the dinghy. Motoring inside, the sounds of thousands of sparrows could be heard and shadows of hundreds of birds flying slightly above could be seen. The water appeared as though it was raining by the amount of bird excrement that seemed to continual fall. After admiring the cave and the markings on the wall, some of which dated back to the 1800’s we continued deeper inside.
Once inside, we made our way to the back of the cave where light could slightly be seen. Swimming from the dinghy to the side and climbing up a small jagged rock passage revealed a small hole in the ceiling, reflecting light onto a pile of white balls. As we poked at the white balls none of us could figure out what these odd things were. I then realized what had happened, “Shit” I yelled. “What” Doug replied, “Shit, these diapers are full of shit”. We all laughed in disgust as we realized that the hole in the ceiling was a local’s backyard that had been throwing their babies diapers below. The cave was renamed “diaper heaven” and we quickly escaped Sparrow’s Cave. Out of the cave we continued traveling to our next destination, Mariner’s Cave.
Mariner’s Cave is an underwater cave that proved to be extremely difficult to find. With no clear markings on the wall it took us about an hour of diving in several different locations before we finally located it. From the outside of the cave, the only clear marker is beneath the surface of the water where a dark whole in the rocks below can be seen. Once inside the light from outside is refracted through the tunnel and onto the ceiling inside. The water appears a fluorescent blue and the electric color is one I shall never forget.
To enter the cave required diving through a tunnel about 10 ft down and 20 ft inwards until coming up for air. Once inside the feeling was quite amazing. The swell surges through the tunnel and as the waves come in the pressure within the cave increases. Along with this increase of pressure visibility is reduced to about three feet causing your vision to go blurry, your ears can feel this pressure change and acquire a painful feeling. Then the wave surge would recede and as the pressure inside the cave would return to normal, your ears would pop and visibility would return to normal. It was a very odd sensation.
Inside the cave, the ceiling appeared to be about thirty feet in the air and there was a jagged rock reef wall that Doug and myself decided to jump off. Scaling up this sharp wall was quite difficult and I acquired several deep cuts on my feet that did not heal until I had arrived into New Zealand. Once atop, I plunged into the pool 20 feet below, losing a fin. As if in slow motion I watched as my right fin spiraled down towards the sea floor some 60 feet below. Diving as if it were the last tool necessary for my survival I swam deep down managing to just grab the tip about 18 ft deep, saving it from the depths of the deep blue.
It was quite fun inside the cavern with the seven of us who had come, Marina, Josh, and myself from the Ferdinand and Doug, Campbell, Manu and the mystery crew woman from Doug’s boat.
Marina was the unfortunate victim on this particular trip whom took a fair amount of abuse from the rock reef wall. As she attempted to climb up the surge of the incoming wave dragged her along the inside wall into a small dangerous deep hole in the back right corner of the cavern. After being dragged about she then was spit out, having scrapped her entire body and hitting her head hard against the rock she appeared quite dazed. Needing some assistance exiting the cave, she made it out safely and had too acquired many cuts that would not heal until our arrival into New Zealand.
Once outside of the cave our fun for the day had not yet finished. Being the last to exit the cave I arrived outside only to discover that Doug had speared a beautiful Grouper. Only one problem, Doug’s spear gun was broken and not only had the spear separated from the gun but the fish had dragged the gun down off of the reef shelf and wrapped itself around a rock that must have been around fifty feet deep. I watched as Campbell and Doug free dove down trying to recover the fish and gear tangled on the reef far below realizing that there was no humanly possible way I could dive that deep. Finally Doug retrieved the fish and we set off for a remote beach to make a fire and cook his reward.
Once we had found a beach we set out gathering the necessary supplies for our proper feast. Manu scaled a nearby coconut tree and picked heaps of coconuts, Doug gathered some mangos and begun preparing the fish, I built a fire and Josh and Campbell bargained for some banana leafs at a nearby village for wrapping the fish and placing it in the fire. I won’t make you drool too much but it was one the best meals I’ve ever had.
The fish was marinated in the bailing bucket with coconuts, spices and a mango concoction that Doug had made. He would probably still deny it, but I know he had brought some spices in his pocket that enhanced the flavors and added a spicy kick. Anyways, the fish was then wrapped in banana leaves and places on woven fern fronds that Marina and I had made to protect it from the flames. Coconuts were passed around and we all consumed as much coconut milk as is humanly possible while we waited for the fish to cook.
After the fish had been picked at and all of the large pieces had been eaten, the rest was scraped into the now empty coconuts. Along with the fish scraps, the marinade that was left in the bucket was evenly poured into the seven empty coconut shells. Using the small coconut cap that had been carefully cut off, we resealed the now full shells and placed them carefully back onto the coals. After letting it simmer for a bit, the most amazing soup imaginable was construed. We ate like kings that day…
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